The best fragrances of 2019
The 2019 perfumery year, manufacturers and distributors will recall with horror: the government was nauseated by the law on mandatory labeling of perfumes, many brands once again changed partners and several distributors left the market. We, without seeing or knowing all this kitchen, will remember many interesting and bright launches of 2019.
The strongest impression of Esxence Milan is the work of Jean Claude Ellen for Perris Monte Carlo - Rose de Mai and Jasmin de Pays. Last year, the perfumer already celebrated his retirement with a lush floral bouquet in the vintage style of Essence Rare Houbigant, and this once again convincingly reminded everyone that, before transparent watercolors, Hermessence made aromas not for elves, but for living people. Its rose is tenderness itself, full of dew and nectar, and jasmine seems to glow from the inside and illuminates everything around. Wearing them joyfully, easy to understand, but buying ... What Houbigant, what Perris Monte Carlo did not reach Russia. We wait. Maybe the situation will change.
Another work of Jean-Claude Ellen caused a lot of controversy. Rose & Cuir Frederic Malle, fragrant with geranium, vetiver and bitter black-green isobutyl-quinoline skin, looks like all the latest works by Frederic Malle to the past and the future, it is easily and happily worn and provides food for the mind. A work of art and brilliant teamwork. But as always.
I bought Memoire d`une Odeur Gucci in duty free, having barely tried it and not waiting for it to appear with discounts. The aroma of peace, childhood, carefree, which practical people are trying to decompose and understand something. I'm not trying I just got into resonance with him and I love. I respect Gucci for courage, because they released in the mass segment something that about half of people would never buy for anything. Of the launches this year, Gucci would also like to praise an elegant bouquet with tuberose and lilies Gucci Bloom Ambrosia de Fiori, but so far has not been able to get it even in a sampler. I will buy it later, when 30 ml bottles come out.
Love Twist Soul Couture - tuberose with fresh feijoa pulp. Few have tried this fragrance and can even buy it in their native Italy, and the press does not favor attention, but I consider it one of the most successful in 2019. He is alive and strange, some kind of alien. It seems to me that baby Yoda could smell like that.
The Slovak brand 1907 Parfums added three new fragrances to its Beneath the Surface project in 2019. They are all addressed to different audiences, but I especially want to note the vintage gilded splendor of Dame d`Or, a fragrance inspired by classics of the early 20th century. Better than 1907 in this field, no one has yet spoken or dared to speak.
Courage is the most fashionable decoration of the last three years. Absolutely charming, running across all gender stereotypes, green with vanilla and musk, with frenzied charisma and a train of Green Lover Lolita Lempicka water was a bold decision for the brand in the mass segment. I hope she fails in sales and does not discourage the authors from taking a risk.
Nowadays, more and more fragrances are being produced not one by one, but by whole clips / collections. Some brands thus hope to be more noticeable on the shelves or to please at least someone. Others (few of them) really tell stories or offer ideas. A very complicated, but important idea of a world without borders and stereotypes is contained in the collection of the Turkish brand Nishane No Boundaries and its title fragrance Ani. It smells of fresh herbs, fruits, milk and vanilla. By the air of the blessed land where the Turkish and Armenian people can live side by side. And someday they will certainly be.
The My Cup of Tea collection of the Russian brand Brocard is dedicated to the tea traditions of the world. It contains four compositions with aromas of tea, spices, bergamot, samovar smoke, Turkish sweets and everything that accompanies the ritual of tea drinking in different countries. My favorite in the Early Morning collection smells like white pomelo juice, fresh wind, ginger and cool green tea. Spent it all summer. I look forward to the next.
The 7 Lovers Carine Roitfeld Parfums collection has not yet reached Russia, but we really need it, because all the flavors in it are made with soul and mind, they are all different, but close as brothers, and all about love. Among the seven lovers there is not a single casual or passing. You remember everyone warmly. Especially good is the fleshy handsome Orson.
Comme des Garcons did not surprise and did not disappoint, but performed in 2019 as befits the flagships of strange perfumes - they returned Series 10: Clash. All three fragrances combine incongruous and demolish the unprepared public. So let's drink for constancy!
The 2019 perfumer was full of acquaintances and communication, but the warmest meeting took place not so long ago in the new Aromatek boutique on Lubyanka with our bright perfume angel Pissara Umavidzhani at the presentation of her new fragrance Pavillon d`Or Parfums Dusita.
For the best bottle design in 2019, I would award Memoire d`une Odeur Gucci and Lost Cherry Tom Ford. A green bottle of chamomile and cherry stably collect thousands of likes on Instagram.
Perfumer of the Year - Jean-Claude Ellen. Undoubtedly, I hope?
The prize for the best PR is shared by the teams of Estee Lauder (thank you for taking Mal!) And Rive Gauche (superexclusive delivery of Rose Turkia Molinard at the request of maniacs - not everyone will decide on this).